What To Look For When Buying A Used Watch?

Buying a used watch can be a fantastic way to acquire a high-quality timepiece at a more accessible price point. However, navigating the pre-owned watch market requires careful consideration and due diligence. This article will guide you through the essential factors to examine, ensuring you make an informed and satisfying purchase.

Table: Key Considerations When Buying a Used Watch

Detailed Explanations

Authenticity

• Brand Specifics: Each watch brand has unique design elements and manufacturing techniques. Thoroughly research the specific model you're interested in to identify potential red flags, such as incorrect font styles on the dial, poorly executed engravings, or inconsistencies in the overall finishing.

• Movement: The movement is the heart of the watch. A genuine movement will have specific markings, serial numbers, and finishing details characteristic of the manufacturer. If possible, have a watchmaker inspect the movement. Even if you can't open the case, inquire about the movement type (e.g., ETA, Sellita, in-house) and research its expected performance and reliability.

• Serial and Reference Numbers: These numbers are crucial for identifying the watch's model and production date. They should be present on the case, movement, or bracelet (depending on the brand) and should match the documentation (if available). Verify the numbers using online resources or by contacting the manufacturer.

• Documentation: Original boxes, papers, and warranty cards provide strong evidence of authenticity. Match the serial and reference numbers on the watch to those on the documentation. Be aware that fake documentation can also exist, so scrutinize the papers carefully.

Condition

• Case: The case protects the movement and contributes significantly to the watch's aesthetics. Inspect for scratches, dents, and signs of over-polishing, which can soften the sharp lines of the case. Check the lug holes for wear from strap changes and look for any signs of corrosion, especially on vintage watches.

• Dial and Hands: The dial is the face of the watch and should be in good condition. Look for imperfections such as staining, spotting, or discoloration. Check the hands for corrosion, damage, or reluming (the application of luminous material). Ensure the lume glows evenly and consistently. Dial refinishing can affect the watch's value, so be aware of any restoration work.

• Crystal: The crystal protects the dial. Examine it for scratches, chips, and cracks. Consider the material of the crystal (e.g., sapphire, acrylic, mineral). Sapphire is the most scratch-resistant. An anti-reflective coating can improve visibility, but it can also be scratched.

• Bracelet/Strap: The bracelet or strap should be in good condition and appropriate for the watch. Inspect the bracelet for wear, stretching, and damage. Check the clasp for secure closure. If the watch has a leather strap, examine it for cracks, wear, and signs of replacement. An original bracelet or strap can add value to the watch.

• Bezel: The bezel surrounds the crystal. Check for scratches, dings, or fading. If the watch has a rotating bezel (common on dive watches), ensure it rotates smoothly and clicks into place correctly. On dive watches, confirm the bezel alignment with the dial markers.

Mechanical Function

• Movement Operation: Test all functions of the watch, including timekeeping, date, chronograph, and any other complications. Ensure the watch winds smoothly, the hands move freely, and the date changes correctly. Listen for any unusual noises from the movement.

• Accuracy: Check the accuracy of the watch over a period of 24-48 hours. Compare the time against a reliable time source. Note any significant deviations. Mechanical watches may require servicing if they are running significantly fast or slow.

• Service History: A well-maintained watch will have been serviced regularly (every 3-5 years for mechanical movements). Request documentation of any services performed. A lack of service history may indicate the need for immediate servicing, which can be costly.

Provenance and Seller

• Seller Reputation: Research the seller's reputation by reading reviews and feedback from other buyers. Choose reputable dealers or platforms with buyer protection policies. Be wary of sellers with consistently low prices or a lack of transparency.

• Provenance: Knowing the watch's history and ownership can add to its value and desirability, especially for rare or historically significant watches.

• Return Policy: A clear and fair return policy allows you to return the watch if it is not as described or if you discover any issues after purchase. Understand the terms and conditions of the return policy before committing to the purchase.

Market Value

• Market Research: Research the current market value of the watch by comparing prices from different sources. Factor in the watch's condition, age, and rarity. Be aware of price fluctuations due to market trends and demand. Websites like Chrono24, eBay (completed listings), and watch forums can provide valuable pricing data.

• Negotiation: Be prepared to negotiate the price, considering any flaws or issues with the watch. Have a realistic budget in mind and be willing to walk away if the price is too high.

Legal Considerations

• Stolen Property: Verify the watch's serial number against stolen watch databases (if available). Purchase only from reputable sources to minimize the risk of buying stolen property.

• Import Duties and Taxes: Be aware of any import duties or taxes that may apply if purchasing from overseas. Factor these costs into your budget.

Frequently Asked Questions

• How can I tell if a used watch is authentic? Research the specific brand and model, paying attention to details like font styles, engravings, and movement markings. Compare the watch to authentic examples and check the serial and reference numbers.

• What is the ideal service history for a used watch? Mechanical watches should be serviced every 3-5 years. Look for documentation of any services performed.

• What should I look for when inspecting the case of a used watch? Check for scratches, dents, and signs of over-polishing. Also, examine the lug holes for wear and look for any signs of corrosion.

• How important is the original box and papers? Original boxes and papers are strong indicators of authenticity and can increase the watch's value.

• Where is the best place to buy a used watch? Reputable dealers or platforms with buyer protection policies are generally the safest options.

Conclusion

Buying a used watch requires careful consideration of authenticity, condition, mechanical function, provenance, and market value. By following the guidelines outlined in this article, you can increase your chances of making a satisfying and valuable purchase. Thorough research and a discerning eye are your best tools in the pre-owned watch market.